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Ok, either I’m losing it or my ears are playing tricks on me. Here’s the situation (Gonna get a lil’ technical here):
I’m currently using (see below SS, as "#1 Choice"):
Gigabyte Motherboard EX58-UD4P RealTek HD (latest drivers) Audio as my original source, running at 48000hz, conversion through Breakaway (latest version) @ 44100, and it sounds GREAT through my 5.1 Speakers (Logitech) or headphones (audio technica ath a700). Now, take this into consideration. I’m not plugging my headphones into the back of the computer in this setup, but rather plugging them into the volume control device that comes w/ my Logitech 5.1 speakers….and THIS MIGHT B IMPORTANT cause…(read on)
However…
I have a S/PDIF connection available option (reference "#2 Choice in below SS). So, I hook it up, change default original source to MB (see above) RealTek HD DIGITAL, run the S/PDIF from computer to my 47inch’ flat screen LCD (I use as a computer monitor, tv, etc), and wait to be amazed (because I’ve read everywhere that this, evidently, is suppose to be the best clarity in sound deliver I can get)….and yet, I’m disappointed. It’s not sounding superior. The bass isn’t kicking in my headphones like it does in the previous setup. I’m miffed. I’m baffled! The digital source is @48000hz output, w/ Breakway converting at 44100hz.
So, the only thing that is changing here is plugging my speakers/headphones into my computer itself (in #1 Choice), or changing that to plugging my headphones into my LCD flatscreen TV or using the TV’s built in speakers (#2 Choice).
I thought S/PDIF was suppose to offer one of the cleanest/highest qualities one can get (inexpensively)? Am I missing something here? Since my S/PDIF connection runs from computer to the TV/LCD 47inch ….does the TV have a part to play in this? Meaning, I understand that my computer is the original source regardless, but once my computer delivers the music source through the S/PDIF cable to my TV/LCD, is the TV/LCD doing something else w/ the music that’s then moving on to the speakers/my headphones? Is it doing any more processing?
I’m just really trying to understand and erase some ignorance on my part. And yes, my S/PDIF cables are excellent quality w/ gold plated tips. I could provide more technical jargon, model #s, etc. if really necessary, but my end synopsis on this is that the quality difference I’m hearing has to do w/ the fact that, even though my cans (headphones) are plugged into my 5.1 speaker’s control devise, it’s still delivering a superior sound cause the source is transfering through the Logitech base/unit where more processing is taking place…….vs. plugging my cans into my 47inch TV, that does have speakers built into it, but its all just factor based and nothing grand about it…
What can any of ya recommend? Is there something I could buy to connect my S/PDIF computer source to…and then plug my cans into that vs. my TV/LCD?
Digital signals has to be converted to analog somewhere — it’s just a question of where to do it. (Here I go again 😀 )
All other things being equal, it’s best to do it as close to the speakers as possible. Doing it inside the amplifier means you get the D/A converter out of the computer, and you avoid any hum/noise from the cable between the computer and amp. That’s the advantage — the signal has a shorter path in the analog domain.
However, if the S/PDIF is going through the TV, who knows what’s happening inside there! There COULD theoretically be all sorts of processing. There’s also nothing that states that the D/A in the TV is better than the one inside the computer. Realtek makes pretty good quality stuff — very impressive for on-board.
If it was a good quality home theater amplifier, I’d say s/pdif is a good thing, but going through the TV there’s really not much to gain (even in theory) and possibly some things to lose, as you’ve heard in your particular situation. I’d say stick with the on-board output if you’re happy with it!
If you’re not, how about getting a better sound card? An ESI juli@ is a tremendous improvement over the on-board realtek.
It’s also possible that your speakers / headphones are the weak link. How much were they?
Best,
///Leifreading ur words now oh sleepless one 🙂
Please reread my post real quick though..I just mod-ed it and added more info….
*goes back to reading ur post*
I think u nailed it when u said "who knows what’s going on in there!" Meaning, once the S/PDIF hits my TV/LCD.
I’m comfortable w/ the output source of the Realtek onboard sound, when filtered through my Logitech 5.1 speakers or using headphones plugged into the Logitech’s 5.1 volume control unit.
What I’m not comfortable w/ lately has been sound cards. I bought a damn Sound Blaster X-Fi Xtreme Audio sound card, only to later find out that I’d have to buy a "sold separately" device if I wanted to be able to utilize my S/PDIF available option. It was too late by this time, I couldn’t return it, so I ripped it out of my computer and went back to using the onboard MB sound.
To get REALLY technical, I have a very tiny lil cable/attachment that runs from my motherboard to my graphics card (EVGA GeForce GTX 260), which enables my computer’s ability to produce/deliver sound through a S/PDIF connection. The Sound Blaster X-FI card I had didnt have the lil connection for this wire, and hence was worthless if I wanted to connect for S/PDIF capabilities.
So, bottom line here I guess is that if I really want to get this perfect, I would need to buy a soundcard that has the S/PDIF option included…AND …..what? Meaning, if I didnt want to go dropping $$$ on new computer speakers that r S/PDIF HD friendly ….is there some sort of sound box…axillary unit …out there that could be a middle man? that could let me connect my headphones to…and not through my LCD/TV ?
Sorry, ugh….I’m not a complete idiot here. I build my own computers. BUT, I am new to all this SOUND stuff….and quickly becoming a audiophile follower ….pursuing the best sound I can get!
Sound Blaster makes consumer gear. It’s (usually) an improvement over on-board, but I wouldn’t actually call it good.
There are audiophile-grade external D/A converters, but they’re *expensive* — several hundred dollars, way more than for example an ESI Juli@ which is probably under $150.
In the near future I’m planning to make a more advanced Breakaway version for consumers — Breakaway HT. This of course stands for Home Theater, and it will have several new features you will be able to make use of. Dual Outputs (with separate sample rate conversion), 5.1 support (the primary output), and 12-band parametric EQ.
That last feature (PEQ) is probably the most important one. Logitech speakers are hit-and-miss when it comes to frequency response, but with PEQ and an RTA (such as the free Breakaway RTA software) and a calibrated microphone (such as Behringer ECM8000, about $60), you can make a night-and-day difference — it will sound like different speakers. If you’re a serious budding audiophile, I’d say this is a good first step to take 🙂.
Breakaway HT doesn’t exist yet, but it will, and it will be an upgrade option from Breakaway Audio enhancer.
The Behringer ECM8000 microphone is a professional measurement microphone, and it needs a microphone input with 48v phantom power. I use an EMU 0404 USB interface, which is $199, and is a very nice sounding external audio interface, and also has S/PDIF output. "EMU Tracker Pre" is cheaper at $149, and also has phantom powered mic inputs, but no S/PDIF — which as you know doesn’t really improve anything if the analog outputs are already good, which they are.
Sorry. I don’t mean to frivolously be spending your money. 🙂
However, I firmly believe that an RTA calibration setup is the best investment anyone serious about audio can make, because of the enormous quality improvement it can make. The microphone is of course only needed while calibrating, so you can calibrate any one number of sound systems with it — all the sound system needs permanently is either a 1/3 octave (31-band) EQ, or a Parametric EQ.///Leif
Whoa…you’re getting a lil ahead of me ….I dont mind it , but let me catch up 🙂 I’m still learning a lot about PC audio….
Why would I want a EMU 0404 USB interface? Is that something I really need being a gamer/music crazed listener?
And, if I go w/ the soundcard u recommended, the sweet looking ESI Juli@ ….what speakers would u recommend in the $100-$400 (really rather keep it $100-$300, but will go the extra mile if it’s REALLLLLY worth it) range? Pref 5.1 w/ S/PDIF support.
Thanks for your insight, wisdom, and advice. I’m surely a novice in the real world audio PC sense, and your attention is appreciated. Help spend my money wisely! LOL 😆
For speakers here’s a couple of sets…
http://reviews.cnet.com/4504-4_7-0.html?id=30602151&id=31115626I own a set of the Klipsch and they sound awesome (though no longer available), but I think the best choice for your needs would be the Logitech Z-5500.
I recommended EMU 0404 USB because of flexibility — it has phantom-powered professional microphone inputs, clean excellent sounding analog outputs as well as s/pdif in and out. It’s also USB, so you can use it with your laptop / netbook, should the need arise. It’s also not much more expensive than the ESI Juli@.
On stability alone, had it not been for the mic inputs, I would have recommended the ESI Juli@ instead, but PEQ/RTA calibration is a huge deal which can make a true objective improvement. It’s also something that’s unnecessarily complicated for at least 99% of the population, but I figure since you’re still here, you’re part of the minority who really cares about sound 😉.
Klipsch makes some very good speakers, although I was dissatisfied with the treble in a THX-certified klipsch computer-speaker set I heard a few years ago — the tweeters had a metallic quality I was never able to EQ out.
///Leif
Meh, the Z-5500. It’s muddy, it’s anything but accurate, but it’s loud. It depends on your ears really, but i’ve heard it, and i wouldn’t buy one myself.
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